If you use a plastic anchor, it will break loose around the plastic and fail. There is no way to apply plaster in mid air so there has to be something there If it was built later like the 40's then there may be rock lath behind the plaster. If it is an old house (turn of the century) then there HAS to be lath behind the plaster. When I tried to use plastic ankers, there seamed to by a lot of "movement". I am trying to hang wire shelving on a wall where there is horsehair plaster and no wood-slat backing. This topic is available here on The Repair-Place forum But you'll still want to create dust barriers between rooms as you work on one and clean clean clean like crazy when you're done.How do I "set a screw" in horsehair" plaster? If the damage is worse than expected, the walls coated in horsehair plaster may need to be removed. I would assume a 1780s home was never retrofitted for forced air, so you won't have ductwork at least that needs to be cleaned when you're done, so at least you don't have that to worry about. Invest in a HEPA vac (or at least use a Shop-Vac with a HEPA bag) and do some reading on the lead-safe procedures. Your personal exposure won't be super high, but you also don't want lead dust floating around in the air in that home once you move your family in. Obviously those of us who deal with it every day have to take extreme precautions because our overall exposure is so high. The EPA licenses contractors to work with lead-containing surfaces (it's the RRP program), and those of use who are licensed charge more than non-certified individuals. The lead-safe procedures really aren't that difficult to follow. do yourself a favor and get it tested and proceed properly from here forward. Now you could be saying my house was built in XXXX but i can tell you that even if that is the case you don't know when that plaster was installed. Still having minor panic attacks because my results should be coming back today or tomorrow. If you are concerned then you should, as they aren't that expensive. I have, in the past, used a drill and kehole saw for small openings in walls (i.e. I need to cut an approximately 24' square opening in the ceiling without damaging the surrounding plaster. The house has its original horsehair plaster ceiling and walls. Still, I did stop all work and and just got a test kit. The job is a relatively simple one, except for the plaster problem. Asbestos in horsehair, from my research, didn't become more common until the 1920s and onward and mostly in decorative plaster. I freaked out and still having little panic attacts. got through about 5 videos and the last one mentioned hey be careful because there could be asbestos. I got about two sections in for the night and thought i would youtube some tips on how to keep this dust down and see if i could improve my technique. I was working in small sections to keep the dust down a bit and clean my work area so I would hammer off clean up, pull off lath, clean up and move on. Now I was working with a mask rated for lead dust just because its what I had but also sticking a towel under the door to keep the dust limited to my area. Start at the top of the crack and drag the compound down, pushing it into the crack as. Using the putty knife, apply a thin coat of joint compound to the crack. Look for compound, paint flakes, and other debris in the crack and scrape it out. My house was built in the 1880s and I have had the same concerns as I was doing similar work. Start the project by cleaning up the crack with the utility knife. Now I have been wearing a filter mask when hammering out the plaster as there is an inordinate amount of dust in the property anyway, but I am concerned that I have now spread asbestos across the house now! Seemingly, asbestos was used in this type of plaster to further bind the mixture. This is taken from Google but looks almost identical to the plaster in my living room (See below for a shopping list and tools.)SUBSCRIB. Only when I took a break and googled 'Horsehair plaster' that I started to get a bit concerned. This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows a newer, faster way to fix cracked, loose plaster walls. The plaster which sits directly on top of the original wall seems contain horse hair (seems reasonable given the age of the property) and initially I didn't give it a second thought and started hammering away at the plaster. The use of animal hair is particulary important when lime plastering onto laths, as the plaster doesnt adhere well to timber once dried. Animal hair for lath and lime plastering. As a general rule, use 25g of animal hair per 25kg of lime plaster. I have restored the original fireplace and adjacent walls (which were covered by a boundary wall of new brick) but have come across something quite interesting. A bundle of approximately 100g will be required for an area of 4sqm of lath or 6sqm of solid wall. My 1780 property has thrown up yet another concern haha!
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